Production techniques and its effect on balsamico quality
The basic procedure of production of Balsamic vinegar involves two major steps of transformation:
1. Alcoholic fermentation and
2. Acetic oxidation.
Fermentation takes place either in the progression of wood barrels or in large storage tanks where a complex enzymatic activity takes place. The cooked must is added to the tanks or barrels, along with either an acetobacter, called the “mother,” or a small amount of strong wine vinegar. Yeasts either introduced or allowed to develop spontaneously, convert the natural sugars found in the must into alcohol, which is in turn consumed by the acetobacter and converted into vinegar. Traditionally, this process is begun in late summer, when the heat encourages a greater rate of bacterial activity. Higher temperatures are favorable for activating the yeasts.
If the vinegar has been fermented in tanks or barrels, it is then transferred to the batteria but the barrels are filled only up to 66 to 75 percent capacity. This is to allow sufficient air for further oxidation to take place. Over the course of a year, anywhere from 15 percent to 30 percent of the volume is lost through evaporation. Every year, each barrel is topped off with the contents from the next larger one, and the largest is replenished with new cooked must. This step of “topping up” is called “rincalzo”. The shuttling from cask to cask is called “travaso” meaning “between barrels”. Rincalzo is typically done during the coldest part of the year, when bacterial activity is low. Also at this time, the bye products of the fermentation precipitate, leaving a clear liquid on top. Unlike with wine, extreme fluctuations in temperature actually benefit balsamic vinegar, helping it to achieve its density and complex character. Modena and Reggio, with their hot summer evenings and cool winter nights have an ideal climate for vinegar attics.
Thus as the years pass by, the vinegar is transferred into smaller and smaller barrels, the water in it evaporates and the vinegar mellows, becoming viscous, intensely aromatic, and sweet. The final balance in its characteristics is struck through a series of corrections made periodically to adjust the sugar level or acidity level, a task that requires a great deal of skill and expertise on the part of the vinegar maker. After the vinegar has passed through each barrel, it is then transferred to tiny barrels or open barrels for further maturing. Italian law requires a minimum of 12 years of aging before the vinegar can be considered for approval and sold as aceto balsamico tradizionale.
balsamico, balsamic vinegar making
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