Classification or categories of Balsamic Vinegar
Loosely speaking, there are three categories of vinegars available in the market today: artisan-style, industrial, and imitation. There is a great deal of controversy and confusion over the categorization of balsamic vinegar. While legal and emotional battles continue in this regard the best criteria for classification is perhaps on the basis of the method of production. Artisan style: Evidently the best names in this style are aceto balsamico tradizionale di Modena and aceto balsamico tradizionale di Reggio Emilia. This is the authentic vinegar, made in the traditional artisan style in the provinces of Modena and Reggio as it has been made for 1000 years, and which has been tested and approved by the balsamic consortiums of Modena and Reggio. Look for the word “tradizionale” on the label. Approved vinegars can also be identified by their distinctive bottle.
For Modena, the approved bottle, designed by Italian Giorgetto Giugiaro, is a small bulbous globe on a rectangular base, made out of one piece of glass. Color capsules indicate age; white denotes younger vinegar; gold an extra vecchio, a very old one. Modena consortium tasters prefer the characteristics of older vinegars, thus the average tradizionale will normally be 20-30 years old.
The Reggio consortium certifies three levels of aceto balsamico tradizionale vinegars. “Tradizionale,” “Qualita superiore,” and the best, “Extra vecchio.” Each grade of Reggio balsamico is indicated by foiled and stamped color labels. All three come in a vase shaped bottle with a round seal that states Consortium of Producers of Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia.
Reggio is often criticized by the Modena counterparts for what they claim is a lenient grading system. Indeed, Reggio’s tradizionale vinegars tend to have a sweeter, more plummy flavor than Modena’s.
The fact is that no two bottles of tradizionale will ever be alike. This is because different barrels used over the years impart different character to the vinegar and also the vinegars are mostly a blend of the old and the new. We therefore find that even among producers, there are variations in age and style. However, certain characteristics don’t change. Fine tradizionale are thick, luscious, dark purplish brown, and aromatic, with sweet and sour properties harmoniously blended. When you tip the bottle, the vinegar should be viscous, and coat the sides of the glass. The vinegars will taste of everything from old port, toffee, vanilla, caramel, and chocolate to plum jam. Their initial sweetness is followed by a slight acidity. Because of their intense viscosity and flavor, tradizionales are meant to be used sparingly.
There is a newly emerging category of artisan style balsamic vinegar. These vinegars are made by producers who use only unadulterated cooked grape must and follow traditional artisan methods, but sell a portion of their supplies sooner than the legally required period of 12 years, or by small producers who make vinegars that could qualify for the tradizionale category, but do not want to pay the consortium membership fee or bottling fee. Since these vinegars do not go through the consortium’s approval process, by law they are not allowed to be called tradizionale. Instead they are marketed as a condiment, and are trying to get a special categorization for their products.
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